THE ROCK HEWN CHURCHES OF LALIBELA

What Makes Lalibela Special ?

Lalibela is one of Ethiopia’s most magical destinations. For many, it is the absolute highlight of their journey across Ethiopia.

Mountaintop vistas where countryside extends as far as the eye can see, only to be broken by the rise of jagged peaks on the horizon.

The quiet of a countryside walk swiftly juxtaposed by the chaos of a weekly market.

Pilgrims adorned in white robes joining together in prayer and song, their voices heard in the farthest corners of the town.

The kindness of a local priest, who upon noticing you, brings you a gown as the service begins.

Things to do in Lalibela

Visit the Rock Churches of Lalibela

Occupying a roughly triangular 15 hectare site either side of a rock-cut stream known locally as the Jordan River, the rock-hewn churches in Lalibela are found in two main clusters with the magnificent Bet Giyorgis standing in glorious isolation about 300 metres from the other churches.

The northern cluster of seven churches and chapels seem to have a much greater cohesion and sense of order. Some argue this supports the idea that it was constructed from a cogent plan, perhaps made by a powerful ruler like King Lalibela.

The southern cluster, found 250 metres from the northern cluster, is made up of seven churches. Here order is less visible. Symmetry is rare. Steps and hand holds have been worn wide and smooth by constant use. It feels older; the explanations for the churches and tunnels are less certain, which create room for imagination.

 

Visit Highland Monasteries in Lalibela

Head up into the mountains surrounding Lalibela and you’ll discover churches and monasteries that pre-date those in the center of town. As you ascend the escarpments, navigating the craggy rock faces that lead to the churches, you’re rewarded by stunning views for miles around.It soon becomes clear why the religious leaders of the time chose to build the monasteries here, high in the hills, away from the noise of the city.

Visit Yemrehanna Krestos

Close to the small town of Bilbilla, 30km from Lalibela, there is a small cluster of churches built into the cliff-face. Yemrehanna Krestos is the most impressive of the bunch.

Yemrehenna Krestos, built from layers of wood and granite laced with gypsum – it is a remarkable example of Axumite architecture.

Although academically interesting, it is the atmosphere of the place that lingers in the memory. Priests appear as silhouettes in the gloom, partially obscured by the smoke from burning incense.

The bones of 10,740 pilgrims rest here, a shock to each visitor, but nothing out of the ordinary for the locals who worship here.

Visit Nakuta La’ab Monastery

Named after Lalibela’s nephew, Na’akuto La’ab Monastery is located just 7km from Lalibela.

It is a relatively simple church built around a cave which in turn holds several spring-fed holy pools.

Treasures, including paintings, crosses and illuminated bibles are available to see, the latter reputedly owned by Nakuta La’ab.

We recommend visiting this site in the afternoon as it is one of the best places to catch the incredible sunset over Lalibela and rural Amhara.

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